FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 
ABOUT EPOXY RESIN USE

Our Epoxy Resin the maximum temperature for cured clear resin, after 21 days of cure, is 200F or 93C. At these temperatures, the cured pieces may become a little flexible but once they cool off, they will harden up once again. Typically, the heat generated from a hot mug will not damage the crystal resin surface on a coaster. But you have to note, regardless of which colorant you choose, do not exceed 5% colorant to the total amount of Resin Glory as this will affect the delicate balance required for the chemical reaction and guaranteed heat resistance.

After the resin has hardened, if a sticky film forms on the surface. This problem can be easily reduced by wiping a sponge soaked in hot water on your surface. However, if you want to avoid film formation, do the following: >Always try to work in an indoor environment, preventing sudden changes in the room temperature. Recommended temperature 22-27C. >Remember that film formation does not depend only on moisture but also on the presence of CO2, thus limiting the use of thermal guns during the catalysis process. Recommended humidity 40-70%. >Remember that using a container limits the interaction of the resin with the air molecules. Try to keep your product as isolated as possible.

It can be enough for one coat, but consider that some projects will require two coats- a seal coat (to cover porous, moist absorbing surfaces) and a flood coating. As well, if you like a thicker layer, you can add more than one coat. To prevent flow over, you can dam the edges by using masking tape or strips of hard plastic to create a temporary barrier. If you like that flow, but don’t like drips on the back of your piece, you can put painter tape on the back next to the edges, just remove it before full cure, 24-hour ends.

Yes. Once Resin Glory is fully cured, your resin project can be used safely as a food contact surface. When you use Resin Glory as directed, the fully cured resin will not leach any substances into food that comes into contact with it. It can be used in contact with cold food or exterior drinkware. You can check out Resin Glory's SDS for further details. ⚠️PLEASE NOTE: *Resin Glory has been deemed safe for food contact once it has cured, but please keep food or beverages well away from Resin Glory in its pre-cured liquid form. *Resin Glory is NOT edible or potable in either liquid or cured form. *The maximum temperature cured Resin Glory can come in contact with is 200F or 90C. But hot food placed on a resin surface should be avoided. *Adding certain resin colourants may alter Resin Glory non-toxicity and non-flammability and can compromise its food safety designation. To avoid this add a clear resin top coat. *Do not use Resin Gory products in microwave or dishwasher.

Resin Glory’s epoxy resin is bubble free when you follow the techniques that we are about to share with you. You can certainly achieve a clear, glass like finish to your epoxy resin projects and create work that doesn’t have bubbles in it, if you need. The best way to stop bubbles from appearing in your work is to understand what causes them: 1 - Cold resin temperatures 2 - Pouring too thick at once 3 - Mixing too fast 4 - Your project is releasing trapped air 5 - Bubbles are stuck to the mould edges Don’t worry, a lot of people, especially when they are new to resin art do have issues with bubbles at the beginning. But there is a way to go around it. 1 - Cold resin temperatures: If your resin mix turns a misty/milky looking appearance to it then it means that you are having temperature issues and it is too cold. Resin loves warm temperatures and you need your work area and resin/hardener to be warm for your project to work really well. The ideal temperature to work with and have your resin/hardener is between 22-27C or 70-80F. Between these temperatures your resin will perform the best, it will flow really well and won’t have a misty look to it, it will be perfectly clear. The misty/milky look is due to lots of tiny micro-bubbles that form in cold resin. These cannot be removed once your work has cured, so you need to adjust the temperature before you begin. Before measuring, you can warm your resin/hardener bottles in a warm, not hot, bowl of water, for about 10-15 minutes. Make sure the lids are kept on the bottles fully secured and the water doesn’t go above the Resin Glory label, after bath dry the bottles off before opening and measuring. Any moisture that gets into your resin will affect your project in other ways. 2 - Pouring too thick at once: Resin Glory is designed as a coating or small craft casting resin, it is great at other projects too, although you can pour up to 3cm/1.1'' in depth, but if you want to get bubble free results it should be done in 1/4 layers. If you pour a thicker project then air can get trapped under your project, creating bubbles at the bottom of your mould that you cannot remove while your resin is curing. If you pour in layers this air won’t get trapped at the bottom and will allow you to get rid of any surface bubbles that do appear in each layer to be removed. To remove these simply use a heat torch. Gently use ,6-8 inches from the surface, sweeping movements to hover over your work with the heat torch applying direct heat to pop the bubbles as you go. Be careful not to get the heat torch too close to your project, and don’t hold it on one area too long, this can cause rippling or your mould can start to melt and later stick to your project. You need to use a heat torch and not something like a heat gun, hair dryer to do this, as the heat from a hair dryer isn’t direct enough and can cause your resin to move and also dirt to be blown into it. Once you have poured a layer of no more than 1/4 inch, you can disperse the bubbles then wait 3-5 hours before pouring the next. Be careful to extend your curing times if you are building a project up in layers as the cure time will increase in time. 3 - Mixing too fast: Bubbles can be caused by mixing the resin and hardener too fast causing air to get trapped in the mix. When mixing your warmed resin for 3 or more minutes make sure you mix with slow, steady and controlled movements. This will trap less air in the mix and less bubbles will appear in your project. Also be intentional when you pour, so that you don’t pour too quickly and create bubbles this way. Pour slowly and steadily, which will again trap less air. 4 - Your project is releasing trapped air: Layers are also great to use for any projects that have things like flowers or glitters in them. A project with large items in them like these can hide trapped air behind or around them. When the air releases during the curing process it can create bubbles. If you use the layering technique then you will be able to get rid of any bubbles that do appear as you build up the layers. As well if you are using porous materials like wood, shells etc., it is good to seal them before adding to the resin (just coat objects with the resin and leave it to dry). This way objects can't release unexpected bubbles. If you're working with flowers in your work, please make sure they are completely dried out, and if you're worried about using a heat torch to remove the bubbles close to delicate flowers you can always prick the bubbles away with a cocktail stick as the work cures. You can also use a rubbing alcohol, isopropyl alcohol to remove the bubbles too, just spray on your project. These last two won't create ripple effects like over torching can. But if you are using this technic, please do not use a torch as it's hazardous. 5 - Bubble are stuck to the mould edges: These are the most annoying ones and they can't be avoided with any resin. There can be different reasons but main factors are: resin thickness, mould structure/quality and how quick we pour our resin, but there is a way to treat them. Usually, they are quite large so the best way, once you have poured your resin, is to go around your mould edges or other complicated areas, with a cocktail stick, or we are using knitting needle, as it's not that sharp, and lift all trapped bubbles, once they are lifted, they will rise to the surface without any trouble. Please note if you use a cocktail stick, be careful it is sharp and can leave scratches on your mould. If you would like to create a project with bubbles in it, then do the opposite! Except the temperature guidance, as temperature is very important for resin curing process.

Resin Glory can give a great protective cover to your artwork, and make it glossy. It can be used for acrylic paintings, wood surfaces and other projects. Although the results glisten for themselves, the process requires patience, preparation, and care. Make sure that your Artwork is ready. Please make sure if you are covering your artwork in epoxy resin, that you have used the correct paints, not oil based, and you have allowed the paints to dry fully before applying the epoxy resin to your work. To avoid back drips apply painters tape and remove it as soon as the project is cured. Preparing your workplace. The ideal working temperature when using and curing Resin Glory is between 70-80F or 22-27C with ideally no more than 50% humidity. You may want to set up a thermometer and a humidity gauge to ensure the environment stays within these parameters throughout the curing process of at least 24 hours. Resin Glory has a pot life (working time) of between 30-40 minutes. Because you don't have all the time in the world, you need to ensure you set up your workspace in advance of starting your project. Check what you need, and place it in easy reach of your workspace. Make sure that your workplace is free from dust and your art project level. You'll also need to consider having worktops/flooring covered with plastic sheeting, and cleaning accessories to hand. Resin Glory is a low viscosity resin, which basically means it's quite runny, it can get everywhere and can be difficult to clean out of things like carpets and other fabrics if it is spilled or runs off the edge of your work. Measuring and Mixing Before measuring, calculate how much Resin you will need. Measure your resin by volume 1:1. Stir thoroughly for 3-5 minutes, ensuring you scrape the bottom and sides of your mixing container as you go. Coating wood surface. If your art is on wood, it may contain trapped air which can release into the resin in the form of bubbles. There are many variables that can affect gas bubbles: the type of wood, how dry the wood is, humidity etc. Pre-sealing wood with a spray or brush-on sealant is an option to help to prevent bubbles. As well, you can simply brush on a tinny coat of resin. We always recommend testing so you know exactly what results to expect before you resin your final project. If in doubt, however, you can never go wrong by erring on the side of caution and pre-sealing. Coat. Pouring the Resin Pour the Resin Glory onto the centre of your piece and spread it out to the edges using a plastic spreader, gloved fingers or a popsicle stick. Our resin is self leveling so make sure your projects are flat before pouring the resin. To remove bubbles simply use a torch. Gently use ,6-8 inches from the surface, sweeping movements to hover over your work with the torch applying direct heat to pop the bubbles as you go. Be careful not to get the heat torch too close to your project, and don’t hold it on one area too long, this can cause rippling. When pouring your resin mix, please make sure not to scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing jug. Sometimes the resin mix at the sides and bottom get stuck and end up not mixed enough to fully cure, so avoid doing this to get every drop out and your work should cure fine. After you need to use a heat torch and not something like a heat gun, hair dryer to do this, as the heat from a hair dryer isn’t direct enough and can cause your resin to move and also dirt to be blown into it. Once the piece has been torched, look at the resin in the light for any missed bubbles, tiny hairs or bits of dust, using a toothpick to fish them out. If you want to do more than one coat just wait 3-5 hours before pouring the next or when it is cured, sand it off and then add one more layer. Cover your Resin Art and wait 24 hours Cover your work if you would like to ensure it is kept clean and dust free. But leave it to sit in the room with the temperature between 22-27C or 70-80F for the next 24 hours. Please do not move your work during the first 12 hours at least. Moving your work could also cause an uneven and rippled surface to your work. In 24 hours your artwork should be hard to the touch and you should be able to hang your work, or remove it from it's mold.

As an epoxy resin supplier, we recognize the importance of understanding the environmental impact of the products we provide. While epoxy resins are synthetic materials derived from petroleum, they can still be considered relatively eco-friendly for several reasons: 💧Our epoxy resin products are formulated with 100% solids and are fully reactive, which means they do not contain solvents or other volatile components that could evaporate and contribute to air pollution. This results in a more environmentally friendly product compared to other materials that may release harmful chemicals into the atmosphere. 💧Epoxy resins are known for their exceptional strength, resilience, and long-lasting properties. This means that when used in various applications, the need for frequent replacements is significantly reduced, ultimately resulting in less waste and fewer resources being consumed over time. 💧Many epoxy resin formulations have low volatile organic compound (VOC) emissions, which contributes to better air quality both during application and throughout the product's lifespan. This makes epoxy resins a more environmentally friendly choice compared to other materials with higher VOC emissions.

Proper disposal of epoxy resin is crucial in minimizing its impact on the environment. Here are some tips for safe disposal: Prevent spills into waterways: Be cautious when working with epoxy resin near water sources to avoid any accidental spills that could harm aquatic life. NEVER pour chemicals down your drains or toilet. You may cause damage to your pipes or stop up your system. If you have liquid resin or hardener you no longer want, take them to your local waste collection center or give it to another resin professional to avoid liquid waste. These centers (in the UK or US) also collect paint, batteries, electronics, etc. They’ll know how to dispose of resin to keep the environment safe. When bringing to disposal, keep the labels on the containers. Then, put them in a package that allows waste collection personnel to handle the items safely. In other words, don’t hand them a bottle with sticky resin on the outside. Put your bottles in a plastic bag first. Pro tip: You can review your products’ safety data sheet (SDS) information. There will be recommendations and cautions on how you dispose of resin. And if your epoxy resin doesn’t have an SDS, you shouldn’t be using it anyway. Once your resin is completely dry, you can throw it away in your trash. Pro tip: You always can reuse/integrate your mistakes in other projects, especially if you do coloured projects, this way you will need less fresh resin. Use leftover epoxy resin for other projects: If you have small amounts of epoxy resin left over from a project, consider using it for creative applications such as epoxy resin jeweler, coasters, bookmarks, or other small projects. When you pouring resin, always have extra mould on the side for leftovers.